Budgie Care: A Complete Guide for Owners

Budgerigars, often called budgies or parakeets, are small parrots that originally come from Australia, where they live in large, noisy flocks. They are bright, playful and chatty, and they thrive when their need for company, flight and mental stimulation is met.

Budgies need company

A budgie on its own can become lonely and bored, even with an attentive owner. Most do best with at least one other budgie. Same-sex pairs and mixed pairs can both work, though a male and female together may try to breed, so ask an avian vet for advice if you want to avoid this.

Introduce new birds gradually. A quarantine period in a separate room, followed by a health check, is usually recommended before a new bird meets your existing flock, as birds can carry infections without showing signs. Some lone budgies are very bonded to their owners, but adding a companion is still worth considering, especially if you are out for long periods.

Cage size and setup

Choose a cage that is wider than it is tall, because budgies fly horizontally, not up and down. The bigger the better: they should be able to flutter from perch to perch, not just hop. Bar spacing should be narrow enough that they cannot get their heads stuck.

Inside the cage:

• Perches of different thicknesses and natural materials, such as safe untreated branches, help keep feet healthy. Avoid sandpaper perch covers.
• Food and water bowls placed away from perches so they do not get soiled.
• Toys to chew, shred, climb and push, rotated regularly.
• Space: avoid overcrowding the cage so there is still room to move.

Place the cage in a busy but not chaotic part of the home, against a wall for security, away from draughts, direct sun, radiators and the kitchen. Budgies need a regular routine of daylight and darkness. Many owners cover part of the cage at night to help them settle, and around 10 to 12 hours of quiet darkness is commonly suggested.

Daily time out of the cage

Flying is the main way budgies exercise. Daily time out of the cage, in a bird-safe room, is important for both physical and mental health. Before letting your budgie out:

• Close windows and doors, and draw curtains or blinds over large windows and mirrors until your bird learns the room.
• Turn off ceiling fans and keep heaters and open flames out of the way.
• Shut other pets, especially cats and dogs, out of the room. Even a friendly pet can cause serious injury or stress, and cat saliva in particular can cause dangerous infections in birds.
• Remove toxic houseplants, cover water such as fish tanks and toilets, and check for gaps your budgie could get stuck in.
• Supervise at all times.

Wing clipping is a topic where views differ. Many avian vets now prefer to keep birds fully flighted in a safe environment, as flight is important for fitness and confidence. Discuss this with your vet rather than deciding on your own.

Diet: more than seed

A diet of only seed is one of the most common problems in pet budgies. Seed is high in fat and lacks several important nutrients, which can contribute to obesity, liver disease and other health issues over time. Budgies often prefer seed and may be reluctant to try new foods, so changes need patience.

Food	Role in the diet	Notes
Quality pellets or a good seed mix	Base of the diet	Many avian vets favour pellets; switch gradually and monitor weight
Fresh vegetables and leafy greens	Daily	For example broccoli, carrot, peppers, kale, spinach in moderation, herbs
Fruit	Small amounts occasionally	Higher in sugar than vegetables
Sprouted seeds	Occasional	Fresh and clean; discard if any smell or mould
Fresh water	Always available	Change daily and clean the container

Never feed avocado, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, salty or sugary snacks, or onion and garlic. See our toxic foods page for more. Offer vegetables chopped, shredded, clipped to the bars or hidden in toys, and keep trying, as it can take many attempts before a budgie accepts a new food.

If you switch from seed to pellets, do it slowly, and watch closely that your budgie is actually eating. A small bird that stops eating can become ill quickly. An avian vet can guide you through the change.

Cuttlebone, grit and supplements: ask your vet

Cuttlebone and mineral blocks are widely offered as a source of calcium and something to chew. Grit is more debated: budgies hull their seeds, and many avian vets advise against offering grit freely, as some birds eat too much. Whether your budgie needs supplements depends on their diet and health. These are good questions to ask an avian vet rather than following packaging advice.

Household dangers

Birds have extremely sensitive respiratory systems, and some common household hazards can be fatal.

• Non-stick cookware. Pans and appliances coated with PTFE (often sold as non-stick) can release fumes when overheated that can kill birds within minutes. This can also apply to some air fryers, ovens with self-clean settings, heaters and irons. Keep birds well away from the kitchen and consider bird-safe alternatives such as stainless steel or cast iron.
• Aerosols and fumes. Air fresheners, scented candles, plug-in diffusers, cleaning sprays, hairspray, paint and smoke can all harm birds. Use them away from your budgie, with good ventilation, or avoid them entirely.
• Open windows and doors. An escaped budgie is unlikely to survive outdoors.
• Other pets. Cats, dogs and even other birds can injure budgies.
• Hot surfaces and water. Hobs, kettles, sinks and uncovered pans are hazards during free flight.

Knowing basic first aid can help in an emergency; see our guide to pet first aid basics.

Signs of illness birds hide

Like many prey animals, birds instinctively hide signs of illness. By the time a budgie looks unwell, they may be quite poorly. Learn what is normal for your bird and watch for:

• Sitting fluffed up for long periods, or sleeping much more than usual.
• Tail bobbing with each breath, open-mouth breathing or clicking sounds.
• Changes in droppings: colour, consistency, amount or a lot of watery urine.
• Eating less, or sitting at the food bowl without really eating.
• Sitting on the cage floor, or reluctance to fly or perch.
• Discharge from the eyes or nostrils, or a change in the cere.
• Weight loss, which you may only notice by feeling the breastbone or weighing.

Weighing your budgie regularly with digital scales that measure in grams is a useful early-warning tool. Our guide to knowing your pet's normal has tips on building a baseline.

A simple care routine

How often	What to do
Daily	Fresh water and food, fresh vegetables, check droppings and behaviour, supervised flying time, quiet night-time darkness
Weekly	Clean perches, bowls and the cage floor, rotate toys, weigh your budgie
Monthly	Deep-clean the cage, check perches and toys for wear, check beak and nails
Yearly	Health check with an avian vet

When to see a vet

See an avian vet promptly, ideally the same day, if your budgie:

• Is fluffed up, sleepy, or sitting on the cage floor.
• Is tail bobbing, breathing with an open beak, or making breathing noises.
• Has stopped eating or has a big change in droppings.
• Has bleeding, an injury, or has been caught by another animal.
• May have been exposed to fumes, smoke or a toxic substance, even if they seem well.
• Is a female straining or seems unable to pass an egg.

Book an appointment for weight loss, feather loss or plucking, overgrown beak or nails, or behaviour changes. Our guide to signs your pet needs a vet has more detail.

Lifespan and finding an avian vet

With good care, budgies often live for many years, commonly somewhere between 5 and 10, and sometimes longer, though this varies widely with diet, genetics and environment.

Not all vets treat birds, so find an avian vet, or a practice with a vet experienced in birds, before you need one. To keep a record of your budgie's weight, diet changes and vet visits, you can create a free Petopedia account.