Guinea Pig Care: A Complete Guide for Owners

Guinea pigs are chatty, gentle and full of character. They squeak when they hear the fridge door, purr when content and "popcorn" when excited. They are also prey animals with a delicate digestive system, and they hide illness well. Understanding a few key needs goes a long way.

Keep at least two

Guinea pigs are herd animals and get lonely on their own. Keeping at least two is strongly recommended. Common pairings include two females, a neutered male with one or more females, or two males that have grown up together, though male pairs can fall out, especially if space is tight.

Guinea pigs should not be kept with rabbits. Rabbits can injure them, they have different dietary needs, and rabbits can carry bacteria that cause respiratory disease in guinea pigs.

Space and housing

Guinea pigs need more space than many commercial cages offer. They do not climb or jump much, so floor area matters far more than height. A spacious enclosure lets them run, explore and get away from each other if they need to. Many owners find that a large indoor pen, or a hutch joined to a secure run, works well, with daily access to extra space for exercise.

Good housing should include:

• At least one hide per guinea pig, plus tunnels, so nobody gets cornered.
• Soft, absorbent bedding such as paper-based bedding or fleece liners, cleaned regularly.
• A solid floor rather than wire, which can injure feet.
• Protection from predators, rain, draughts and direct sun.

Temperature sensitivity

Guinea pigs cope poorly with heat and can suffer heatstroke on warm days, especially in direct sun, in hot rooms or in poorly ventilated hutches. They also feel the cold and damp. Many owners bring guinea pigs indoors, or into a frost-free, well-ventilated outbuilding (never one used for a car), in colder months.

Keep them away from radiators, sunny windows and draughts. In hot weather, provide shade, airflow and cool spots such as a ceramic tile, and watch for panting, lethargy or lying stretched out and unresponsive, which can be signs of overheating.

Diet: hay, veg and vitamin C

Like rabbits, guinea pigs need a diet based mostly on hay. Unlike rabbits, they cannot make their own vitamin C, so they need it from their food every day. A lack of vitamin C can lead to scurvy, with signs such as reluctance to move, swollen joints, a rough coat, poor appetite and bleeding gums.

Food	Roughly how much	Notes
Hay	Unlimited; the bulk of the diet	Good-quality feeding hay, always available
Fresh vegetables	A cupful or so per pig daily	Include vitamin C-rich options such as peppers, kale or parsley
Guinea-pig nuggets	A small daily portion	Choose a food made for guinea pigs, not rabbits
Fruit	Occasional small pieces	High in sugar
Fresh water	Always available	Check bottles daily for blockages

Vitamin C in pelleted food degrades over time, so check the date and store it in a cool, dry place. Introduce new vegetables gradually to avoid upsetting the gut. Avoid iceberg lettuce, and do not feed potatoes, onions, rhubarb or houseplants. If you are unsure about a food, our toxic foods page is a helpful starting point, and your vet can advise on whether a supplement is needed. Adding vitamin C to water is generally not recommended, as it breaks down quickly and can put guinea pigs off drinking.

Teeth

All of a guinea pig's teeth grow continuously, including the back teeth you cannot see. Plenty of hay keeps them worn down. Overgrown teeth can trap the tongue or cause painful spurs. Watch for dropping food, drooling, a wet chin, eating more slowly or weight loss, and ask your vet to check their teeth at routine visits.

Handling

Many guinea pigs are nervous about being picked up at first. Let them get used to your voice and hand, and offer food from your palm. To lift, place one hand under the chest behind the front legs and the other supporting the bottom, then hold them close to your body. Sit down when handling, so a wriggle does not lead to a fall, and supervise children closely.

Enrichment and hiding places

Guinea pigs feel safest when they have somewhere to dash into. Tunnels, cardboard boxes, fleece "forests" and wooden hides make them more confident and more likely to explore. Scatter feeding hay and vegetables encourages natural foraging. Safe chews, such as untreated apple or willow sticks, give them something to gnaw. Rearranging the layout now and then keeps their space interesting.

Weigh weekly: your early warning

Guinea pigs often show no obvious signs of illness until they are quite poorly. One of the most useful things you can do is weigh each guinea pig once a week, at a similar time of day, using kitchen scales and a small container. Write it down, or log it in your Petopedia account if you have one.

A steady weight is reassuring. A gradual or sudden drop is often the first sign that something is wrong, even before appetite changes are obvious. If you notice a consistent downward trend, or a sudden fall, speak to your vet. Our guides to knowing your pet's normal and healthy weight and body condition explain how to build a picture of what is typical for your pet.

A simple care routine

How often	What to do
Daily	Top up hay and water, feed fresh veg and nuggets, check everyone is eating and active, spot-clean soiled areas, check droppings
Weekly	Weigh each guinea pig, full clean of the enclosure, check eyes, ears, nose, feet and coat
Monthly	Check and trim nails if needed, check bottoms of older boars, review hides and toys
Yearly	Health check with a vet who sees guinea pigs regularly

Long-haired breeds need regular grooming, and older males can sometimes have problems keeping their rear end clean, so check them as part of your routine.

When to see a vet

Guinea pigs can become seriously ill quickly, so it is better to call early. Contact a vet promptly, ideally the same day, if your guinea pig:

• Stops eating, or eats noticeably less.
• Loses weight on the scales.
• Has noisy breathing, wheezing, clicking, or discharge from the eyes or nose.
• Has diarrhoea or produces few or no droppings.
• Sits hunched, is reluctant to move, or seems unusually quiet.
• Has signs of overheating, or has been injured.
• Is straining to pass urine or has blood in the urine.

Book a check-up for hair loss, itchiness, lumps, overgrown nails or teeth, or other changes. Our guide to signs your pet needs a vet has more examples.

Lifespan and finding the right vet

With good care, many guinea pigs live for around 5 to 7 years, sometimes longer, although individuals vary. Not every practice sees guinea pigs regularly, so it is worth finding a vet with experience in small mammals or exotic pets before you need one. To keep track of weekly weights and health notes for each of your guinea pigs, you can create a free Petopedia account.