Rabbit Care: A Complete Guide for Owners

Rabbits are often thought of as easy starter pets, but they are complex animals with specific needs. They are prey animals, which shapes almost everything about how they behave, how they show (or hide) pain, and what helps them feel safe. Get the basics right and a rabbit can be an affectionate, curious companion for many years.

Rabbits need company

In the wild, rabbits live in groups, and most pet rabbits are happiest with another rabbit for company. A human cannot fully replace a rabbit friend: you are not there overnight, you do not groom them, and you do not speak their language of nudges, flops and shared meals.

A neutered male and neutered female is often the easiest pairing, though other combinations can work. Introductions ("bonding") should be done gradually, on neutral ground, and sometimes take weeks. If it is not going well, a rabbit rescue or a rabbit-experienced vet can offer advice. Keeping a rabbit with a guinea pig is generally discouraged, as they have different needs and rabbits can injure guinea pigs.

Space: more than a hutch

A small hutch on its own is not enough. Rabbits need to hop several times in a row, stand up fully on their back legs, stretch out flat and run. A good setup gives them a secure shelter area joined to a large exercise space that they can reach whenever they like, not just for an hour a day. Rabbits are most active around dawn and dusk, so access at those times matters.

Whether indoors or outdoors, the space should be:

• Secure against foxes, cats, dogs and birds of prey, with a solid roof or mesh top and protection against digging.
• Sheltered from rain, wind, strong sun and draughts, with a dry, insulated sleeping area.
• Rabbit-proofed indoors, with cables covered or out of reach and toxic houseplants removed.
• Furnished with hiding places, more than one exit from each hide, and spaces for both rabbits to rest together or apart.

Outdoor rabbits need extra care in hot and cold spells. Shade and good airflow in summer, and extra bedding and wind protection in winter, are essential.

Diet: hay first, always

Hay or grass should make up the vast majority of what your rabbit eats, with a portion roughly the size of their body each day as a common rule of thumb. Good-quality feeding hay (such as timothy or meadow hay) keeps the gut moving and wears down the teeth. It should be available at all times.

Food	Roughly how much	Notes
Hay or grass	Unlimited; the bulk of the diet	Fresh, dry, sweet-smelling; never lawnmower clippings
Leafy greens and herbs	A handful or two daily	Introduce new ones slowly; variety is good
Rabbit pellets	A small measured amount	Plain extruded nuggets, not muesli mixes
Treats (fruit, root veg)	Very occasional, tiny pieces	High in sugar; carrots are a treat, not a staple
Fresh water	Always available	A bowl is often drunk from more readily than a bottle

Muesli-style mixes are widely discouraged because rabbits tend to pick out the sugary, starchy bits and leave the rest, which can contribute to dental and digestive problems and obesity. If your rabbit is currently on muesli, switch gradually over a couple of weeks.

Suitable greens include things like spring greens, kale, romaine lettuce, coriander, parsley, basil and dandelion leaves. Avoid iceberg lettuce, and check any plant you are unsure about. Your vet can advise on an appropriate pellet amount for your rabbit's size and age, as this varies.

Teeth that never stop growing

A rabbit's teeth grow continuously throughout life. Chewing hay and grass, with its side-to-side grinding action, is what keeps them worn to the right length. Without enough fibre, teeth can overgrow and develop sharp spurs that cut the tongue and cheeks, making eating painful.

Signs of dental trouble include dropping food, eating more slowly, choosing soft foods over hay, drooling or a wet chin, weight loss, runny eyes and fewer or smaller droppings. Dental problems are one of the most common reasons rabbits see a vet, and regular check-ups help catch them early.

Gut stasis: an emergency

A rabbit's digestive system needs to keep moving. If it slows or stops, a condition often called gut stasis, the rabbit can become seriously ill very quickly. It can be triggered by pain, stress, dental disease, a low-fibre diet or other illness.

A rabbit that stops eating, or stops producing droppings, should see a vet the same day. Do not wait overnight to see if it improves. Other warning signs include a hunched posture, teeth grinding, lethargy, a bloated tummy, and droppings that are much smaller than usual.

It helps to know what normal looks like: healthy droppings are round, fairly uniform and plentiful. Rabbits also produce softer, shiny clusters called caecotrophs, which they normally eat directly from their bottom. Seeing these left uneaten regularly can be a sign of diet, weight or mobility problems.

Flystrike: check the bottom daily

Flystrike happens when flies lay eggs on a rabbit, usually around the bottom, and the hatched maggots eat into the skin. It can become life-threatening within hours. Rabbits with a dirty bottom, which can be caused by obesity, dental pain, arthritis or a diet too rich in pellets and treats, are most at risk, but any rabbit can be affected.

In warmer months, check your rabbit's rear end at least once a day, and twice in hot weather. Keep bedding clean and dry, and ask your vet about preventive products. If you see maggots, contact a vet immediately.

Vaccination and neutering

In many countries, including the UK, rabbits can be vaccinated against serious viral diseases such as myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease. Which vaccines are recommended, and how often, depends on where you live and the products available, so discuss this with your vet.

Neutering is commonly recommended for both sexes. It can make bonding easier, reduce territorial behaviour and spraying, and in females it removes the risk of uterine cancer, which is common in unspayed does. Your vet can talk you through timing and the risks of anaesthesia.

Handling gently

Many rabbits dislike being picked up, because being lifted off the ground feels like being caught by a predator. Spend time with your rabbit at their level, sitting on the floor and letting them approach you.

When you do need to lift them, support their back and hindquarters fully, keeping them close to your body. Never lift a rabbit by the ears or scruff. A rabbit that kicks out can injure its spine, so lower them gently if they struggle. Children should be supervised and encouraged to sit and stroke rather than carry.

Enrichment

Rabbits need things to do. Without them, they can become bored, stressed or destructive. Good options include:

• A digging box filled with soil, shredded paper or child-safe play sand.
• Cardboard boxes and tunnels with more than one entrance.
• Untreated willow, apple wood or safe chew toys.
• Hay scattered or stuffed into toys so they forage.
• Platforms to hop onto and look out from.

Rotating items keeps things interesting. Many rabbits also enjoy gentle training with tiny food rewards.

Signs of illness rabbits hide

As prey animals, rabbits instinctively mask pain and weakness. By the time illness is obvious, it may be advanced. Learning your rabbit's normal habits, appetite and droppings is your best early-warning system, and our guide to knowing your pet's normal can help.

Weighing your rabbit regularly and checking body condition, as described in healthy weight and body condition, can flag slow changes you might otherwise miss.

A simple care routine

How often	What to do
Daily	Refill hay and water, offer greens, check eating and droppings, check the bottom (twice daily in warm weather), spot-clean toilet areas
Weekly	Full clean of litter trays and bedding, weigh your rabbit, check nails, teeth you can see, eyes and ears, groom
Monthly	Review enrichment, inspect the enclosure for damage, check nails and trim if needed
Yearly	Health check and vaccinations as advised by your vet

When to see a vet

Contact a vet the same day if your rabbit:

• Stops eating or eats much less than usual.
• Produces few or no droppings, or very small ones.
• Sits hunched, grinds teeth, or seems unusually quiet.
• Has maggots, or a soiled or wet bottom in warm weather.
• Has a head tilt, loss of balance, or breathing difficulty.
• Has been injured or attacked by another animal.

Book an appointment soon for weight loss, drooling, runny eyes or nose, changes in droppings, lumps, or changes in behaviour. Our guide to signs your pet needs a vet has more detail.

Lifespan and finding the right vet

With good care, many pet rabbits live for around 8 to 12 years, and some live longer, though this varies with breed, size, genetics and health. That is a long commitment, similar to some dogs.

Not every vet practice sees many rabbits, so it is worth finding one with a vet who has a particular interest or experience in rabbits before you need them. Ask whether they routinely anaesthetise rabbits and offer dental care. If you would like to keep track of your rabbit's weight, appetite and vet visits in one place, you can create a free Petopedia account.